Author Archives: steve

Momofuku Ko

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***** (5 stars)

What a phenomenal experience. We loved the ambiance of this place, which is both romantic and trendy, vibrant yet conducive to conversation, epicurean yet accessible.

Not every course was a hit, but there were certainly plenty of home runs. But the friendliness of the wait staff, the chefs, and especially the sommelier, Chase, Sinzer, are what really made this a remarkable evening.

I suspect most people her opt for the wine pairings, which we often do, too, but if so they are missing a terrific wine list, with exclusively great producers, and some very reasonable prices.

Truly a special dining experience, and one I look forward to repeating.

Momofuku Ko
8 Extra Pl
New York, NY 10003
(212) 203-8095
http://www.yelp.com/biz/momofuku-ko-new-york-3

A Voce

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**** (4 stars)

Our first experience at this restaurant was during a busy brunch. We wanted to enjoy multiple courses and several bottles of wine, and it didn’t go well. The chef insisted we place our entire party’s order at once, and then proceeded to cover the table two layers deep in plates of food. Something about the concept of fine dining seemed to have been lost in translation.

A recent mid-afternoon weekday visit was much more successful. The place was almost empty, we had a lovely table by the window, and we selected from the three course lunch menu. The raw Fluke appetizer was the highlight of the meal, and worthy of a Michelin starred sushi restaurant. By Bronzino entree was perfectly crisped and seasoned, although I was less enthusiastic about my companion’s steak, which was nicely cooked but not particularly tender or flavorful. The desserts were also quite good.

Service was friendly and attentive.

My advice: go during an off time to enjoy this restaurant to the fullest.

A Voce
10 Columbus Cir
3rd Fl
New York, NY 10019
(212) 823-2523
http://www.yelp.com/biz/a-voce-new-york-3

On The Border

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**** (4 stars)

This turned out to be a surprisingly good choice for breakfast before our flight. Located in a bright, open space with a nice view of the runway, they offer a short but tasty breakfast menu.

The breakfast burrito was stuffed with fluffy scrambled eggs (although there could have been more bacon). And the yogurt parfait was light and fruity.

We were in and out in thirty minutes.

On The Border
Orlando International Airport
One Jeff Fuqua Blvd
Orlando, FL 32827

http://www.yelp.com/biz/on-the-border-orlando

Stonington’s Seafood

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**** (4 stars)

This place surprised me with its extremely high quality fried shrimp and fried chicken. They were both delicious, and not too greasy. The chicken had a completely different coating that made it quite delicate, compared to the more traditional batter of the shrimp.

The sides were good, too, especially the side salad, which had lots of interesting ingredients; the mac and cheese, which had been baked in a little pie tin; and the corn bread, which had been fried on one side. Onion rings were rather greasy.

The operative word here is, of course, “fried”. Almost everything is. But for a splurge it’s very good.

Note this is not “fast” food. Even though you order at a counter, expect it to take twenty minutes to prepare your food. I suppose that accounts for its quality, but you can’t be in a rush.

Stonington’s Seafood
2316 S Kirkman Rd
Orlando, FL 32811
(407) 522-6339
http://www.yelp.com/biz/stoningtons-seafood-orlando

Crispers

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*** (3 stars)

We used to go to this Crispers all the time, but a number of years ago they reduced the potions sizes and we stopped going. I’m glad we tried it again, because it seems like things are back on track. My flatbread was good, and the Thai Chicken salad was excellent. Portion sizes are now generous, and the pricing seems reasonable. I like the “pick two” approach.

The thing that drives me crazy is the inefficient ordering process for a group, which is unchanged after all these years. They make each person place their order while everyone stands around waiting, and then process the credit cards one by one. This means the first item can’t start being prepared until the last item has been paid for, which is incredibly inefficient. And having six or eight people standing around at the register is really annoying. Every other counter service restaurant in town manages to put the same table placard number on each person’s check without this nonsense (see Pei Wei, for example). It’s time someone with some efficiency sense showed Crispers how to do it.

Crispers
2228 S Kirkman Road
Orlando, FL 32811
(407) 296-4551
http://www.yelp.com/biz/crispers-orlando

Mama Louise

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**** (4 stars)

This space has been an Italian restaurant for three decades, and it used to be quite popular. But the landlord raised the rent, the original tenant moved, and things went into a slow decline.

Now Mama Louise has arrived to start a new era. The interior has been freshened and is now airy and even–dare I say–almost trendy. Service has definitely been amped up since the last incarnation. And the food has improved, too.

A group of us went for lunch, and sat in the enlarged outside dining area. The lunch menu offers a nice variety, and at about $8 is reasonably priced. Even pizza toppings, usually the deal killer, are just 25 cents.

And the pizza is good, with a nice slightly chewy but crisp crust, and good toppings. Salads are also good; my Caesar salad was actually outstanding. In fact the only dish that wasn’t a solid win was an Alfredo pasta that was just okay.

The dinner menu looks to be mostly pasta, and judging by the prices, probably fairly large servings of it. I’ll probably stick with lunch, though.

Mama Louise
7600 Dr Phillips Blvd
Orlando, FL 32819
(407) 345-1000
http://www.yelp.com/biz/mama-louise-orlando

Maryland Fried Chicken

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*** (3 stars)

This is an old fashioned fried chicken plan with counter service and a few tables. Standing outside it’s easy to imagine it as a roadside stand in the middle of nowhere, although the widening of highway 50 has crept almost to the edge of the front parking spaces.

Things seem a bit disorganized behind the counter, but the food was hot and fresh tasting. The fried chicken is in a very straightforward style, with no obvious breading or seasoning. Chicken tenders are large strips of solid whit meat, breaded and fried; the breading is salty but not obviously seasoned in any other way. Both types of chicken were quite succulent, if somewhat lacking in flavor.

Sides items varied. Mac and cheese was bland, and the gravy on the mashed potatoes was not a home run, but the red beans and rice had lots of flavor, and the green beans had nice bacon and vinegar notes, although they had been very thoroughly overcooked.

If you’re looking for old-fashioned fried chicken, this may be your ticket. If you’re looking for spices and more complex flavors I would try elsewhere.

Maryland Fried Chicken
13675 W Colonial Dr
Winter Garden, FL 34787
(407) 656-4143
http://www.yelp.com/biz/maryland-fried-chicken-winter-garden

Pizza @ Artegon

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**** (4 stars)

I’ve been to this mall many times over the past fifteen years, and it has always been deserted. But I hadn’t been there since it changed to Artagon, so I was surprised to find… that it’s still deserted.

Be that as it may, this is an excellent pizza spot. You place your order at the counter and supervise as they assemble your pizza and run it though a conveyor oven, a process that only takes a few minutes.

The resulting pizza is on a thin, tasty crust. What’s really nice is that for about $8 you can put up to six ingredients on. Usually extra ingredients are ridiculously expensive, so I love this build your own approach.

That said, I decided to go with one of their featured recipes, the”Goofy Foot.” I’m not sure what a sauceless seafood pizza has to do with where you put your feet on a skateboard, but it was delicious. The combination of cheeses, mahi, shrimp, basil and chili oil really went together. My only complaint was that for some reason–probably the amount of moist ingredients–condensation immediately began to form under the crust, and I had to keep moving it around to keep it from dissolving. I’d like to experiment with ingredients and see if there’s a way to get a truly crispy crust.

Everyone in our group absolutely loved their pizzas, and said they’d like to return. That shouldn’t be a problem, as there will likely be no lines.

Pizza @ Artegon
5250 International Dr
Orlando, FL 32819
(407) 480-5008
http://www.yelp.com/biz/pizza-artegon-orlando

Pop Thai Restaurant

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*** (3 stars)

This is a nicely decorated space with very friendly service. The food is serviceable Thai. We tried a couple of lunch dishes and an appetizer, and although there were no standouts, everything was fine.

My favorite items were actually the soup and salad that came with the lunch. It was a particularly flavorful version of chicken rice soup, and the salad dressing had a nice mix of peanut and a minty flavor that elevated it above the usual peanut sauce.

I wasn’t a fan of one herb used in the potstickers and spring rolls. It was a flavor not usually encountered in these.

I enjoyed the crispy duck and shrimp lunch special, although the duck was far from crispy. The cocoanut tinged curry was nice.

Fresh Hot Basil was inexplicably missing any basil flavor or leaves; in fact, there was more basil in the duck dish.

If you’re in the area and tired of Vietnamese food and tacos, this is a fine choice for a meal, even if it’s not the best Thai in town.

Pop Thai Restaurant
1227 N Mills Ave
Orlando, FL 32803
(407) 917-6139
http://www.yelp.com/biz/pop-thai-restaurant-orlando

Tapa Toro

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***** (5 stars)

This may be Orlando’s best tapas restaurant. Its diverse menu offers all the standards, plus a lot of dishes with a unique twist, and unlike some tapas places there are a lot of lighter selections and many vegetarian offerings.

My favorite dish by far was the roasted cauliflower, which was perfectly seasoned and sauced, and topped with sultanas and capers. Yum! Grilled asparagus served with grated manchego was also very good.

More conventional were the salmon crudo and the grilled garlic shrimp plates. The assorted cold meat platter was also conventional except for the inclusion of a delicious house-made pate and house-made pickles.

There’s an extensive list of wines by the glass or bottle, plus a very intriguing cocktail list. I tried the Feliz Boca, an inspired mixture of rosemary, lavender, blood orange and bitters. Delicious, and an amazing match to the pate.

There’s a nice dessert menu, but note that there’s also a Ben and Jerry’s about ten feet away! Hmm. Decisions.

Service was very friendly and attentive, and the outdoor dining area is great–mostly shaded, with a view of the Orlando Eye, which is nearby.

Tapa Toro
8441 International Dr
Ste 260
Orlando, FL 32819
(407) 226-2929
http://www.yelp.com/biz/tapa-toro-orlando