Category Archives: Asian Fusion

Kabooki Sushi, Simply the Best

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maguro truffle

***** (5 stars)

I’ve previously reviewed Kabooki Sushi here, but we continue to return regularly, and the food has advanced from fantastic to mind-blowing, so it deserves another mention (my first repeat review, after more than 400).

As I said previously, we’ve had sushi at some of the top restaurants all over the world, and I’ve never had a meal as good as the ones I consistently get from Chef Henry Moso at Kabooki Sushi.

We always have the omakase, where you put yourself in the chef’s hands. But we ask him to add extra courses, and to pair it with wines. We usually have about seven courses, and it costs around $125, about double what the original omakase ran. To put this in perspective, I’ve paid more than that for a single course at some high end sushi restaurants, and not gotten as good food!

Similarly, the wine pairing at $30 is cheaper than a single glass of wine at those restaurants (Nobu, I’m looking at you).

The really amazing thing is that in a dozen visits, Chef Henry has never repeated himself, except for one dish, the Maguro Truffle, that we always request. So that’s something like 100 unique dishes!

Not only is each a work of art, but the combination of flavors is so perfect (salty, sweet, umami, citrus, fatty, acidic, rich, light — often all combined in one bite) that it defies description.

And sushi isn’t an easy food to pair with wine. Yet the matches are always perfect, and usually include minor grigio, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet and sparkling wine.

On our latest visit I showed Chef Henry a picture of a dish we had earlier in the week at Morimoto in New York. Two hours later, at the conclusion of our meal, Chef Henry, inspired by the idea, presented us with this:

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otoro tartare with assorted condiments and seaweed chips

If a chef can come up with that on the spur of the moment, imagine what other treasures are in store for us in the future!

Here are some other things we had in that same meal at Kabooki:

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giant clam, seaweed and pickled cucumber

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compressed watermelon, tuna, ouzu sorbet

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hamachi with house-made kimchi

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locally caught grilled cobia

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three types of fish rolled in rice paper, with apple sails, cucumber sorbet

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grilled hamachi collar

If you can only dine at one restaurant in Orlando, it should be Kabooki Sushi.

Kabooki Sushi
3122 E Colonial Dr
Orlando, FL 32803
(407) 228-3839
http://www.yelp.com/biz/kabooki-sushi-orlando

 

 

Wild Ginger

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**** (4 stars)

This small restaurant offers amazingly good sushi, plus a variety of other pan-Asian dishes. We loved everything we tried, including several creative rolls. The Thai Basil Beef was the best I’ve encountered, as was the hot and sour soup. Particularly creative was the salmon skin salad, which was (different from its menu description) tossed with greens and a touch of spice, making it more Vietnamese or Thai than Japanese. The dinner ambiance was fairly intimate, although I understand it is bustling at lunchtime, and with good reason.

Wild Ginger
212 Bedford Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 218-8828
http://www.yelp.com/biz/wild-ginger-brooklyn

Dema Restaurant and Bar

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*** (3 stars)

The Zen-like setting of this lobby restaurant makes it a welcome retreat from the hustle of the Detroit airport, and it’s literally feet away from the gates, with a private TSA entry from the lobby to terminal A.

Service is friendly and there is an extensive selection of wines by the glass. The pepperoni and bacon pizza and the hummus and tapenade appetizer were both good.

Note that the TSA portal closes in the evening and you have to go back around through the terminal, but it’s still not that far.

Dema Restaurant and Bar
The Westin Detroit Metropolitan Airport
2501 Worldgateway Pl
Detroit, MI 48242
(734) 942-6500
http://www.yelp.com/biz/dema-restaurant-and-bar-detroit-2

Elephant Bar Restaurant

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**** (4 stars)

The elephant bar was a pleasant surprise. I was expecting just another middle of the road homogenous American food chain ala TGI Fridays, but it’s far better. For starters, the interior design is beautiful, filled with curved spaces, attractive wood and bamboo surfaces, lots of booths that help with the ambient noise level, and an intimate circular bar near the door.

The menu would be great in a foreign country, because each item is pictured, and the food that shows up actually looks like the picture.

I had the Thai BBQ Salmon Salad, and I have to say it was one of the best salads I’ve ever had. The wood-fired salmon was charred around the edges and glazed with a sweet yet tangy Thai BBQ sauce. The mixed greens were lightly tossed with a citrusy vinaigrette. And the plate was surrounded by little piles of mango, marinated cucumbers, green beans, cherry tomatoes, orange slices, and grilled bell peppers. Each had a unique flavor that complemented the salad. Really a delicious offering.

Service was friendly and efficient, from the greeter at the front door to the desk, to our server. Prices might be a dollar or two higher than the norm, but I felt it was worth it. Aside from a dirty fork, the entire experience was a great one, and I’ll be lobbying the lunch group to return here soon.

Elephant Bar Restaurant
4054 Conroy Road
Orlando, FL 32839
(407) 370-6412
http://www.yelp.com/biz/elephant-bar-restaurant-orlando

Anna’s Asian Grill & Sushi Bar

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**** (4 stars)

Anna’s offers a broad range of Asian cuisines and preparations–eight pages worth, in fact. From sashimi to Thai, curry to noodles, dumplings to roti, you’ll find a bit of everything here. I sampled a number of their small plates, and a noodle dish, and all were good.

There are quite a few house specialties, but perhaps the best known is the Stuffed Avocado, a tempura fried avocado with spicy tuna. The dish is quite rich, and the four pieces would make a good starter for a party of four, or a heavy one for a party of two.

The Trio Blossom is served on three spoons, one with squid and basil, one with hamachi (yellowtail in this case, often amberjack) wrapped around jalapeño and cilantro, and one with kani kama (fake crab) wrapped with salmon. I found the exterior of the squid pleasant, but the interior was rather slimy compared to others I’ve had. The yellowtail was the most successful, the jalapeño nice and crisp and not too spicy. As a result, I think the Rising Sun Roll would have been a better (and cheaper) choice.

The Chef’s Sake Baby Ribs was actually one rib, marinated in a tasty homemade tamarind sauce. It was good, but seemed a small portion to share, and too expensive to justify for one.

The Pad Laos was a nice variation on Pad Thai, with an emphasis on ginger and scallions rather than a typical heavy Pad Thai sauce. The lime wedge provided a nice dose of acidity.

Service was extremely friendly and attentive, and I felt welcome from the moment I stepped in the door.

Anna’s is BYOB, and they did a nice job serving the Champagne brought by a neighboring table. I found it odd in a gourmet Asian restaurant that the green tea was a Lipton tea bag.

I wanted to try a wide variety of preparations, and took my server’s recommendations of the house specialties. They were all good, although I didn’t feel there were any home runs. I think on a return visit I would focus on the sushi rolls.

Anna’s Asian Grill & Sushi Bar
1804-06 W Irving Park Rd
Chicago, IL 60613
(773) 975-3404
http://www.yelp.com/biz/annas-asian-grill-and-sushi-bar-chicago

Sunda

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*** (3 stars)

I had high expectations for Sunda, and they were met in some areas, but not all.

The best item we sampled was the Crispy Brussels Sprouts, a superb house specialty; thin slices of broccoli are almost toasted, then tossed with red cabbage, carrots, chilies, fried shallots, and minced shrimp and served with nuoc cham (a rice wine vinegar dressing). I couldn’t stop eating this!

Tiger Shrimp Tempura was interesting in that it was served with candied walnuts, but the creamy honey aioli was really slathered on and made it very rich.

“Grilled Spare Ribs” are actually Korean style kalbi ribs, not my favorite.

Sushi was less inspiring. We tried several house special rolls, and none was greater than the sum of its parts. Spicy Salmon Shiso was particularly odd, with very finely ground salmon tartare and a dollop of sriracha on top of a thin slice of jicama and a shiso leaf. The ingredients were fine when picked apart, but the combination was a bit of a mess.

The wine and beer list in interesting, with many selections, including some excellent Champagnes, available by the glass. The space is stylish and vibrant, and the service was efficient, if not inspired.

Sunda
110 W Illinois St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 644-0500
http://www.yelp.com/biz/sunda-chicago

Three Dots and a Dash

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***** (5 stars)

I’ve always loved Tiki bars, since I grew up in Los Angeles, frequenting Trader Vic’s, Don the Beachcomber, the Islander, Beachbum Bert’s and many others. It’s sad that they’re all gone. But the good news is that Three Dots and a Dash tops them all.

From the moment you venture down the stairway full of skulls, Three Dots immerses you in perfectly themed kitsch. The lighting, soundtrack and set decoration are impeccable, and the drinks are potent and tasty.

The drink menu is divided between classic and modern sections. I had the signature drink, Three Dots and a Dash, which was not too sweet, and rendered exotic by the inclusion of allspice. It was invented at Don the Beachcomber in the 1940s. (Incidentally Three Dots and a Dash is Morse code for the letter “V” as in victory.)

Many of the drinks are for sharing, and each has its own unique presentation.

We stopped in before dinner, so we didn’t have a chance to try any of the food, but most of it is traditional Tiki menu fare, and it looked delicious.

With a place this cool, you’re going to have to wait in line unless you go at a weird time. We were able to walk in right after work, but the place quickly became packed; however we never felt rushed.

To find the door, look for the alley off of Hubbard and follow the neon stripe.

Three Dots and a Dash
435 N Clark St
Back alley on Hubbard St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 610-4220
http://www.yelp.com/biz/three-dots-and-a-dash-chicago

Karma Asian Food & Fine Wine

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***** (5 stars)

This is a gorgeous restaurant interior. If this place weren’t is a Doubletree in an obscure spot it would be packed.

Alone at lunch on a Saturday, we had a wonderful meal, sharing four appetizers: firecracker shrimp, crab rangoon, seafood pancakes and lettuce wraps. Each was excellent, reasonably priced, and the portions were huge. There is also a thoughtful wines by the glass list and a nices offering of sakes.

If this place were closer to Chicago I would be there all the time.

Karma Asian Food & Fine Wine
510 E Il Rt 83
Mundelein, IL 60060
(847) 970-6900
http://www.yelp.com/biz/karma-asian-food-and-fine-wine-mundelein

Flat Top Grill

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***** (5 stars)

This is my go-to place for a light lunch in Evanston. I completely skip the meats, and have two vegetarian courses. The first I turn into soup, and the second into a stir fry with roti bread. Ingredients are always fresh, and there is a broad selection of interesting sauces. Service is quick, friendly and efficient. I wish there was one of these close to my home!

Flat Top Grill
707 Church St
Evanston, IL 60201
(847) 570-0100
http://www.yelp.com/biz/flat-top-grill-evanston-3

Jumbo Asian Cuisine & Sushi

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**** (4 stars)

This new place is an instant success, a measure of the demand for restaurants in this area, and especially sushi.

My wife and I were in disagreement about the place. I thought it was quite good, while she didn’t like too much about it. It’s true that the lighting over the sushi bar is dreadful, and the servers seem very disorganized and inexperienced. But on the other hand, the place was slammed, with a wait all evening, after being open only three days.

I thought the sushi was excellent. The fish was clearly better than most of the area sushi bars. The hamachi and kampachi sashimi were both particularly good. We both really liked the Magik roll, a mixture of tuna, yellowtail and salmon with wasabi mayo.

The only clear miss was the Tom Yum, which bore no relationship to the Thai lemongrass soup it was supposed to be.

Overall, I think they’re doing a great job for a brand new restaurant, and will be very successful in this area.

Jumbo Asian Cuisine & Sushi
7798 Winter Garden Vineland Rd
Windermere, FL 34786
(407) 909-8868
http://www.yelp.com/biz/jumbo-asian-cuisine-and-sushi-windermere