Author Archives: steve

Naha

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Chocolate tartufo

Beet salad

Skate wing

Duck

*** (3 stars)

The highlights of our dinner at Naha were the service, which was outstanding, and the breads, which are varied and interesting, particularly the ones with fennel, cumin and other unique ingredients.

The beet salad was just okay. The individual ingredients didn’t really come together to create something more.

I enjoyed the skate wing, which had a crispy sear on it, and went well with the sunchoke sauce.

The duck breast had a very flavorful lacquer seared onto the outside, but don’t order this unless you like your duck blood rare. Again, individual ingredients didn’t really complement the duck.

Plating was an issue throughout the meal. The duck, in particular, did not look like a dish served by a Michelin starred restaurant.

The most attractive dish was dessert. The chocolate tartufo was served with a delicious porter beer ice cream and espresso foam, and some of the ingredients worked together.

Naha is an adequate restaurant, but seems very overpriced for the quality. The Michelin star is puzzling.

Naha
500 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 321-6242
https://www.yelp.com/biz/naha-chicago

Tallboy Taco

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Cheese crisp

Interior

*** (3 stars)

This counter serve taco bar is literally at the bar inside National 27. There are a variety of taco fillings on offer, all served on a traditional corn tortilla.

I thought the salmon taco was a bit fishy, and the pastor a bit dry, but both were fine.

The chips were a highlight, obviously homemade, quite crunchy, and well salted. The salsa that came with the order of chips was a thick puree that tasted a bit like enchilada sauce. It was improved by adding some pico de gallo from the salsa bar.

Ceviche was quite good.

The “cheese crisp” was essentially an open face quesadilla, and not all that crisp.

Prices are excellent, and the food comes out from the kitchen quite fast.

Tallboy Taco
325 W Huron St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 488-4917
https://www.yelp.com/biz/tallboy-taco-chicago

South Water Kitchen

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Salmon salad

Bacon chive deviled eggs

Chicken sandwich

Pumpkin pancakes

Exterior

Interior

**** (4 stars)

Went for brunch. It met my criterion of having non-brunch foods at brunch, so that’s a win.

The chicken sandwich and accompanying fries were excellent, with a tender, succulent slab of chicken in a fresh onion roll, and nice crispy fries.

The salmon salad was unusually, being mostly composed of grain, with mixed in chunks of chilled salmon; I really liked it and it went perfectly with the Gainey chardonnay we ordered (a rare bottle to find in a Chicago restaurant).

The pumpkin pancakes were fluffy and accompanied by tasted pecans.

The only miss was the bacon and chive deviled eggs, which were almost good, but contained a bitter herb I couldn’t identify.

The restaurant is divided into a number of spaces on different levels, and has a nice ambience.

Service was friendly, and wines were half price on Sunday, which was a great deal.

South Water Kitchen
225 N Wabash Ave
Chicago, IL 60601
(312) 236-9300
https://www.yelp.com/biz/south-water-kitchen-chicago

Signature Lounge

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View from the ladies room

Lime, bramble, Pimm’s cup

*** (3 stars)

This is a place you go to for the view, of course. It’s a bit tired, and very crowded and noisy, but you can get a table, have a drink, and hope for a better table. Don’t go when it’s the least bit hazy, as visibility is worse than it seems at street level.

It’s certainly a better deal than the observation deck, since it’s free. On the other hand, you won’t get a 360 degree view. Since the space is divided into rooms you have to pick the direction you want to see. On the other, other hand you can get a drink while you enjoy the view. On the other, other, other hand it’s going to cost you about $16 a drink. So go on a clear day.

Signature Lounge
875 N Michigan Ave
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 787-9596
https://www.yelp.com/biz/signature-lounge-chicago

GT Prime

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Entrance

Main dining room

Upstairs

Looking down at the kitchen

Kale Caesar

Carnivore: tenderloin, rib eye, wagyu, venison

Corn and shishito peppers

S’mores ice cream cake

Coffee & stout donuts

**** (4 stars)

This new GT restaurant is very different from its sister restaurant GT Fish & Oyster. In some ways it is more like the related Boka.

The space is mostly dark woods and stainless steel kitchen, although the underlying theme is intended to be a fanciful journey into the woods. We sat in a small upstairs space which was pleasantly isolated from the general hubub, and was quite nice, with interesting forest-themed woodwork and a dazzling light fixture. Given the size of the place, overall noise levels were reasonable, and the soundtrack is eclectic and interesting.

The idea here is to not be just another steakhouse, and they are succeeding with that. Although the emphasis is on red meat, portions are small, typically 4 ounces per person, and the side dishes are plentiful. There were some hits and misses, foodwise.

We started with the Kale Caesar, which had some nice croutons and incongruous cherry tomatoes. The kale was minced so finely that it was en route to tabbouleh, not really the consistency I was looking for. The Caesar dressing that was mixed into it was tasty, though.

Tuna Crudo was one of the standouts–delicate slices of tuna topped with red pepper and cilantro, and lightly sauced, perched atop shaved radish. This dish seemed like it came straight from a sashimi bar.

We shared the “Carnivore,” a sampler of tenderloin, rib eye, Wagyu and venison. The rib eye was the stand out here, and the Wagyu surprisingly came in last. This platter has four, 4-ounce servings of each, and is billed for four people, although two hungry people could no doubt polish it off.

The Brussels sprouts side was nicely caramelized, and probably didn’t need the prosciutto-like topping.

The better side was the Shishito peppers and corn, an unusual combination of lightly blistered peppers and delicious corn kernels creamed with Parmesan cheese.

S’mores Ice Cream Cake was well done, and tasted just like its name, but the real standout for dessert (and perhaps the whole meal) was the Coffee & Stout Donuts. These were served hot from the fryer, with a thick coffee dipping sauce and a wonderful crumb streusel to dip them into. Wow!

I probably wouldn’t go here for a steak, but I’d try some of the other mains, and focus on the appetizers, sides and desserts.

The wine list isn’t extensive, but there are some nice choices, although no bargains.

For a newly-opened restaurant, served was seamless and pleasant.

GT Prime
707 North Wells St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 600-6305
https://www.yelp.com/biz/gt-prime-chicago

Smyth

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Smyth: carrots cooked in beef fat with beef fat donut

Smyth: Tomato dessert

Smyth: Duck tongue cooked two ways

Smyth: Squab

Interior of Smyth

**** (4 stars)

Smyth is in the same class as Next, Oriole and Alinea. That’s some tough competition. The space is gorgeous, with a quiet but open kitchen along the back, and a large open dining room. The soundtrack is great, and at just the right level. So I’d rate it above the cramped Next, rustic, Oriole and stuffy Alinea.

Service was terrific. Each course was presented by a different chef, and the wine pairings were presented by a very personable sommelier. Front desk staff was also very welcoming, making the whole experience quite pleasant.

It’s the food that doesn’t quite live up to those competitors. True, you never know what you’re going to get at Next, but at Oriole and Alinea you can rely upon every component of every dish blending together in eye opening perfection. That was not the case here.

This is definitely a menu for adventurous eaters, with courses such as duck tongue presented two ways.

There were certainly some excellent individual components in the various courses (of which there were more than a dozen, counting the amuse bouches). But no single course every quite came together seamlessly. The Squab was delicious, but not improved by its accompaniments, the puree on which the lamb sat was exquisite, but the very vinegary black garlic sauce clashed, and an egg yolk and cream dessert would have been just as good without the egg.

The first few wines (of nine) in the pairing were a bit out there, but the latter wines were better than the pairings at the above mentioned restaurants, and an amaro went particularly well with one of the desserts.

For a restaurant open only a few weeks I was very impressed by Smyth. At over $500 for two people with the wine pairings, tax and gratuity I think it’s fair to expect a bit more, and I imagine that given a bit of time they will deliver on that promise.

Smyth
177 North Ada St
Chicago, IL 60607
(773) 913-3773
https://www.yelp.com/biz/smyth-chicago

Public House

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Pulled chicken salad

Smoked wings

Bar

*** (3 stars)

Public House is a cut above the average sports bar, with a more diverse menu that still includes all the basics. It has a good ambiance, and the background music is just the right volume.

The smoked wings were nice in that they weren’t breaded or particularly greasy, but they could have used more smoke flavor, and I’d have preferred a Buffalo sauce to the BBQ and white sauce they were served with.

The Pulled Chicken salad was an excellent mix of greens, apple, walnuts, dates,
avocado, fennel, cornbread croutons, goat cheese, honey-cilantro vinaigrette. Although they could have done a better job of separating the pulled chicken from the gristle, the combination of ingredients came through in a sum that was great than the individual parts.

Service (sitting at the bar) was fast and friendly.

Public House
400 N State St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 265-1240
https://www.yelp.com/biz/public-house-chicago

Hearth Restaurant

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Exterior

Svickova

Cavatelli Carbonara

***** (5 stars)

I love the ambiance at Hearth, with its feeling of old Southern charm. It’s similar to when it was Quince (and the receipt even says Quince) but the food is even better now, and the prices very reasonable.

The menu features interesting small plates, and also lets you select a half portion of the larger plates, so it’s a great place to graze. Everything is house-made, including the various delicate varieties of pasta. The menu changes seasonally, with a few favorites always retained.

We began with vichyssoise, which was significantly over-salted, but contained some wonderfully sweet morsels of lobster.

Burrata was a good starter, served with nicely grilled toast. I was uncertain what to do with the accompanying lentils.

The scallops served with passion fruit and cauliflower puree were a standout. The chef really wanted us to try this dish, and I’m glad we did. The scallops were perfectly cooked, and the puree was divine. We also loved the baby sweet carrots.

Svickova was an interesting dish, a bit like a stroganoff. It consisted of beautifully cooked beef tenderloin, house made garlic spaetzle, and wild mushrooms in a sour cream dill sauce. We loved the crispy bits of browned spaetzle.

Cavatelli Carbonara was also scrumptious. The obviously house-made pasta was suffused with a rich mixture of bacon and caramelized onions, and topped with a truffle arugula salad. A half order was plenty for two!

There’s a nice wine list with an emphasis on France, and extensive selections by the glass.

Service was extremely friendly, and the chef makes an effort to visit with each table, something that never happened at Quince.

On nice evenings it’s delightful to dine on the front porch.

Hearth Restaurant
1625 Hinman Ave
Evanston, IL 60201
(847) 570-8400
https://www.yelp.com/biz/hearth-restaurant-evanston

Patisserie Coralie

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Counter

Large moccha

Interior

***** (5 stars)

This delightful french patisserie is owned by the same people at long time favorites Bistro Bordeaux and Creperie Saint Germain.

The pastries are as authentic as you’d expect, and the coffee is top-notch.

What a difference the change in decor from Cafe Mozart days! The formerly dark space is now light and airy, and a delightful place to sit and have a pastry and coffee.

The most pleasant thing about my visit was the cheerful server; she made the experience a very welcoming one.

Patisserie Coralie
600 Davis St
Evanston, IL 60201
(847) 905-0491
https://www.yelp.com/biz/patisserie-coralie-evanston

Whiskey Thief Tavern

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Exterior

Interior

Mirrored wall

Barrel booths

Broccoli

Orphan Barrel Rhetoric 21 Bourbon

**** (4 stars)

This is a great addition to Evanston’s bar scene. The place has a superb atmosphere, with its funky barrel booths, mirrored wall, and rough-hewn tables. It manages to be eclectic, tavern-like, and a sports bar, all at once, depending on where you sit.

The menu includes sports bar staples, but also interesting items such as bacon wrapped dates and a delicious roasted broccoli.

Service was extremely friendly. I was early, and the bartender was waiting on all the tables, too, and she did a great job. The front desk staff also seemed really happy to great each customer.

In fact, the only reason I haven’t rated it five stars is that, ironically, I wasn’t that impressed with their whiskey selection. It’s almost all mass marketed products, whether blended or single malt. I was hoping for a larger selection of obscure and eclectic offerings, including some higher end brands. I did enjoy the Orphan Barrel Rhetoric 21 Year Bourbon I had. The generous pour in a good whiskey tasting glass was well worth the $21 price.

Whiskey Thief Tavern
616 Davis St
Evanston, IL 60201
(847) 859-2342
https://www.yelp.com/biz/whiskey-thief-tavern-evanston