**** (4 stars)
The concept here, as the clever name suggests, is mostly vegetarian, but there are a surprising number of non-vegetarian items, too. The menu focuses on interesting preparations, so you won’t find the kind of items offered at most vegetarian restaurants–no piles of tofu or seitan disguised as meat, no raw vegetable platters. Instead, there are thoughtful preparations that just happen to be vegetarian.
By far the best item we tried was the grilled sourdough, which was perfectly charred and served with a wonderfully creamy sunflower puree.
Also excellent were the grilled ramps, a relatively simple preparation that allowed the garlic yet slightly sweet flavors of the ramps come through.
Lemon and sweet potato tempura was interesting. The tempura batter was light, and the uniqueness of whole lemon slices served tempura style was fun.
Fried sunchokes were less interesting. They just seemed heavy.
The least impressive dish was the fluke crudo. The fluke floated in a marinade that imparted little flavor, and accompanying onions didn’t really go with the dish.
We tried two desserts. Panna cotta served with black coconut ice cream was just okay. The ice cream didn’t really taste like coconut, and the black color, produced by activated charcoal, is a fad I’m ready to be over. (Note that activated charcoal is used when pumping someone’s stomach, and can seriously interfere with many medications.)
The better dessert was the carrot cake, which wasn’t too heavy and was served with a delicious sorghum ice cream.
Because of its interesting menu I’d definitely be inclined to go back to Bad Hunter, but it should be noted that it’s not a place for conversation. The hard surfaces and crowded space make for a very noisy environment. Service was efficient and informative.
802 W Randolph St
Chicago, IL 60607