**** (4 stars)
Unlike many restaurants that focus on healthy eating, True Food is not strictly vegetarian, but rather emphasizes tasty combinations of all healthful foods.
We started with the charred cauliflower, which was good–particularly the really well-charred bits–but wasn’t really enhanced by the accompaniments, especially the somewhat soggy pistachios.
Since we were there for brunch we tried the smashed avocado toast. It was topped by two beautifully cooked sunny side up eggs, and incorporated a razor thin slice of gouda. It was very good, but a rather small serving, so you’re going to want a starter or a side.
The best thing we had was the ancient grains bowl topped with steelhead. (Steelhead is a type of trout, but is almost indistinguishable from salmon.) All of the ingredients in this bowl–quinoa, miso glazed sweet potato, snow peas, grilled portobello mushrooms and avocado– were delicious, and worked beautifully together.
This place is large and bustling, so make sure to make reservations and don’t plan on a quiet conversation.
True Food Kitchen
1 W Erie St
Chicago, IL 60654
(312) 204-6981
http://www.yelp.com/biz/true-food-kitchen-chicago